All'Angelo continues to hum along. Still a class act, just as it was when we ate there twice earlier this year. The staff is so kind, the tables are set crisply and cleanly, the room is calming and comfortable, and food delicious.
And yet... the kitchen has got to mix it up a bit. Along with the list of aforementioned consistent good things, the small menu is exactly the same. I love veal, tender venison and potato tortelli when there's a nip in the air and heavy jackets are draped over our chairs. Then come summertime, I need more than a couple lighter options.
I hope the octopus carpaccio remains -- it's a great signature dish -- but I won't return for $30+ entrées when seasonality is put on the back burner. Other than the specials, the menu doesn't reflect which ingredients are at their peak and what feels best to eat this time of year. While it all tastes terrific, I can't enjoy that heavy, rich meal in July as I can in March.
Maybe I've naively fallen victim to the Chez Panissean gospel or misunderstand this restaurant. Reliability and quality, after all, can be hard to find. And while it falls under the more sophisticated category of "ristorante," All'Angelo isn't grandiose nor pretentious, which is why it's the kind of place I want to visit repeatedly. I recommend it wholeheartedly to anyone who hasn't yet been and is looking to experience outstanding Italian food.
But it's a fine line between being consistent and redundant. If they want to compete with and/or get some overflow traffic from a new red hot joint down the street, they might want to rethink things a bit.