Here's what I wrote about the new Bar Covell in this week's Gold Standard newsletter for the LA Weekly. (Gentle reminder: if you're not subscribed yet -- you can do so here.)
The team behind Bar Covell is
all too familiar with the city's red tape. But after jumping through
endless hoops -- building inspections, permits and licenses -- the new
wine bar finally opened its doors in what was formerly a traffic school
facility at the eastern edge of Hollywood Boulevard. Owner Dustin
Lancaster (formerly of Café Stella)
tells us he wants Bar Covell to be a place for "people to come
together" in a space that feels "lived in, rustic and industrial."
Reclaimed materials, such as the bar surface which once had a previous
life attached to a barn in Kentucky, and artfully placed antique
tsotchkes (cameras, pages torn from an antique encyclopedia Lancaster
bought in Buenos Aires, a motorbike) help imbue the place with a sense
of the past. With an emphasis on affordability, Lancaster and bar
manager/wine director Matthew Kaner (Silverlake Wine)
hope to "open up the conversation about wines and challenge people."
The salvaged window casements doubling as blackboards have space to
list only six wines, so that's how many are served by the glass. But
what Lancaster calls the "hybrid wine tasting and wine list"
arrangement means that any bottle is essentially fair game for
by-the-glass pours. And more importantly, the staff is determined to
direct customers to wines they'll like even if a requested variety
isn't listed. Eight beer taps will satisfy craft beer enthusiasts. The
rotating selection ranges from the locals (Solidarity by Eagle Rock
Brewery, Palomino Pale from Bootlegger's in Fullterton), to a few
imported options. A "light fare" of cheeses, charcuterie, and a
vegetable dish or two selected by Heirloom L.A. are coming next week.
A glass of L. Preston blend fit the mood at the end of an oddly chilly July 4th weekend. I'm looking forward to see what Bar Covell has in store, and already have plans to go back next week. Given how often I make it out to bars these days, that says a lot about a place.
And back to the part about City of L.A.'s red tape: talking to Lancaster about what he's had to go through was an interesting reminder of the disconnect between what the pols say about encouraging local business development, and what it actually takes to get a new venture off the ground. It's alarming and incredibly frustrating; and a longer story for some other time.
Bar Covell: 4628 Hollywood Blvd.; Los Feliz; (323) 660-4400
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