July 12, 2009

Object fetish: Dyson Airblade at Tavern Brentwood

Tavern_AB

The details to be admired in the newest Goin/Styne restaurant venture, Tavern, are many. And that Angeleno sandwich with cavolo nero, artichokes and burrata is phenomenal, as are the soft choco chips cookies from the Larder.

But good GOD, do I love the hand dryers in Tavern's crazily disorienting quasi-coed bathroom!

Henry swears he's seen the Dyson Airblade in a few places around town, even if he can't recall any specifically. Last week was my first encounter with the magical piece of equipment.

I had to look like an idiot for a few seconds to figure out where to put my hands, but then just a few more short seconds later they were completely dry. Being more of a Miele vacuum girl myself means I generally think the Dyson designs are too tricked out, but the Airblade is so completely awesome. If anyone is in need of ridiculous gift ideas for me, maybe it's time to consider that hand vac. Now if only Dyson made home model hand dryers.

November 10, 2008

Back to basics: Taylor's Steakhouse

Taylors_bar When it's 2008 and a local restaurant has been around since 1953, urgency isn't an issue unless it faces the wrecking ball. Such was my rationale for putting a visit to Taylor's Steakhouse on 8th Street on the back burner for so long. Why rush to step back in time?

But chasing the Next Big Thing gets tiring and annoying, and sometimes I want to sit at a big tables with tufted Naugahyde round booths or wingback chairs and eat huge plates of simple classic, unfussy American food. All the better for a good game of armchair sociology. (I wonder if a certain actress was doing more period restaurant research while we were there.) That, folks, is what Taylor's delivers. My dad thinks it's the "Canter's of steakhouses," i.e. shabby and bad. I think he must have ordered wrong and missed. Which can easily happen at Canter's too, so maybe he has a point.

Taylorsrib Obviously I'm not providing secret tips here or any insight into a new culinary trend in Los Angeles. Just reminding people out there that it's O.K. to get back to basics, even if it's not always sustainable or organic. But it can be really fun, and tasty. Especially if you take our friend M.O.P.'s recs and order the prime rib with horseradish cream and cottage fries. I recommend a martini with olives, along with the creamed spinach and onion rings, and bring your own special bottles of wine ($12 corkage) since the list is adequate but unexciting. Pretty good value, too; try eating for under $50 per person at Cut or BLT, eh?       

Taylor's Steakhouse
3361 West 8th Street
Koreatown

213.382.8449

February 25, 2008

It's Craft(y), it's just my type

Going to Craft without my camera was an absent-minded move. But since it's not a dainty kind of place with an excruciatingly delicate plating style, let me set the scene of the table: plates and cast iron cauldrons heaped full of direct, single-ingredient focused, rich dishes that all tasted amazing on a rainy Los Angeles night. I wasn't even cranky about waiting half and hour for our table. The ginger-spiked sidecar helped ease that situation, too.

Sometimes I love not quite knowing what to expect when I order a dish and finding out what a cryptic or, realistically, pretentious description yields. Then other times it's more satisfying to know that what you see is what you'll get, especially with the understanding that you'll get the best ingredients and preparation. Since it'd been a while since my last Big Fancy Dinner, the latter worked best for my wants and needs. I didn't want to be let down or confused, and I was neither at Craft. I would be happy with almost everything on the menu , so we had to order the family style items with laser beam focus.

Choosing once was hard enough. What to do next time? Re-experience the extraordinary surprising juicy Peruvian octopus with thick Greek yogurt, molten tender short ribs, perfectly roasted beet salad, and creative duck egg/ waffle combo? Not to mention the meaty and silky hen of the woods mushrooms and Brussels sprouts with thick hunks of crisp bacon. Best to go with more friends willing to blow a wad to revisit these faves, and try to make a dent in the wide (literally) menu. (I now understand why it's the best utilitarian agent power lunch spot for people who eat there several times a week.)

Despite early criticisms of exorbitant prices, ordering right doesn't mean having to wash dishes given Craft's brand of swanky, expense account eating. We even had a few morsels left over. Our four first courses, three seconds, and two sides formula worked out just fine. I'm certainly not saying it's not expensive, though.   

Oh, and we can't forget the final touches. Sweet, sweet dessert made us swoon, including an amuse bouche that tasted like liquid cheesecake with mango bits. Will someone further east in L.A. please make a meyer lemon chiboust that's as airy and delectable as Craft's, and paired with funky goods like fluffy, complexly textured coconut cake and thyme sorbet? I'm not a donut fanatic, but those went fast at our table and were instant buddies with the sarsaparilla, maple bacon, and creamsicle ice creams and sorbets. 

Regarding the fruit of the vine, I'll be going to Mission Wines to pick up some Betts & Scholl Grenache Chronique. Given the intensity and range of Craft's menu, it's a tall order to pick versatile wines, but this lighter, not overly ripe one hit all the right notes. Plus you gotta love a wine named for Dr. Dre.

To end things right, the parting gift was a warm fuzzy in the cold corporate environment of Century City. Maybe There Ain't No Such Thing as Free Food an Expensive Meal (T.A.N.S.T.A.F.F.E.M.), but the moist carrot raisin muffins gave us a bonus perk of something else predictably delicious to savor the next morning.

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