Ritz Bites

Coming to a home near you: Mozza To Go

Because we're on vacation in New York and Ithaca for a couple of weeks and I don't have much time to post, I'll just cannibalize my own Squid Ink LA Weekly post about the latest forthcoming addition to the Mozza Empire. Cheers! Yay! Etc.

New source of Nature Babycare wipes! Locali on Franklin

OK, so that's an item only a few of us will be excited to find, but I'm very happy to pay a few cents more to buy them right down the street instead of national chain stores. (Though I still do love thee, Target.) Locali "Conscious Convenience" is now open on Franklin just east of Mayfair in the standard issue La Mancha-esque early 80s strip mall that also houses the mediocre-but-much-improved Pimai, and I expect to pop in there a lot. I hope the Bronson/Beachwood Canyon folks show support for a new local venture trying to service our little everyday needs and conduct business on a better, more responsible eco and social level. I'll definitely go back for more of that cabbage soup I tried today, and encourage my neighbors and other parents at the park to check it out, and hope that James doesn't get too used to having such easy access to Carmela ice cream. (Check out my LA Weekly newsletter this week for a bit more info.)
5825 Franklin Ave.
Hollywood (bet. Canyon and Van Ness)
323.466.1360

Bye Bye Benito's?

Though admittedly it's been years since I've been to the Benito's location on Santa Monica Blvd., I felt a tinge of sadness when I noticed it's no longer. It appears a hot wings joint has opened up in the modest structure on the northwest corner of Santa Monica and McCadden. The 3rd Street location immortalized in the Big Lebowski was razed a few years ago, and now the Hollywood branch once featured in a "This American Life" episode is also gone.  Hard core taco lovers will hardly shed a tear, yet...

The Shakey's down street (where the "Ye Olde Public House" sign written in Gothic font are numbered, given the chain's recent rebranding efforts) and Benito's seemed to be the eateries of choice among some of Hollywood's  tranny youth. Will H&W Express be embraced as an acceptable substitute?

Loss to the neighborhood, and a big opportunity: Victor's Liquor & Deli closing

I would not bemoan this development from a food-lovers' standpoint, but it's a sad loss to the Bronson Canyon/East Hollywood Hills neighborhood. Victor's Liquor and Deli is closing at the end of the month. The sign posted in the window spells it all out, and the space is for lease. The plaque memorializing Victor Levy's dream looks very sad now.

The family-owned business has been around for many decades. There's also constant confusion with the OTHER Victor's next door, which is technically Victor's Restaurant, not Victor's Liquor and Delicatessen, and it's under separate ownership. (Don't know the backstory of the split there, though I certainly am curious. Citysearch comments reflect the ongoing confusion between the two businesses.) Current signage about the state of affairs at Victor's Square reinforce this divide.

Both Victor'ses share in common high prices, shabby decor that reflect a type of lazy and resigned management philosophy, and yet, a surprising neighborhood charm. I'll miss Victor's Deli. Too bad we won't be able to run down the hill for shockingly good chicken soup with huge fluffy matzo balls or peruse the small selection of great wines (this is where I first found out about Sean Thackery's Pleiades, a house favorite), which include some old dusty bottles of four-figure priced Lafite Rothschilds and Latours stashed in the 1970s-era faux wood Formica counter. I wonder where those will wind up, since there's no major fire sale planned.

Tonight we had our last take-out meal at home from Victor's. It consisted of just one pastrami sandwich with top-notch quality sweet meat. H actually ate it normal style, i.e. between the pieces of rye bread, while I siphoned off the excess meat and mixed it into a wild arugula and spinach salad with Fuji apple.  Delish!

While we should pause to appreciate the past, let's look to the future. So, will an enterprising restaurateur PLEASE open up a lovely wine bar, or a sleek cafe, or something that's better than the mediocrity that lines this stretch of Franklin Avenue! (Leaf -- of all places -- is the only one I like.)

It's a space with potential that comes with a built-in customer base! Look at all those packed restaurants along the strip, like tre shitty La Poubelle, with its apropos name. Even Victor's Restaurant does strong business with its gross dirty ceilings, old ratty carpet, depressing decor and average food. This article sounds like it's describing about another place entirely.

The bar should be raised to  honor Victor Levy's dream.

I (Mostly) Heart La Buca

The dearth of decent Italian restaurants in Los Angeles doesn't need any more elaboration.  Instead of complaining about the local situation with Italian and simple French bistros, I just shut up and cook Italian at home (less so French).  And then save occasional dinners out for pizza at Angeli or lasagna bolognese at Angelini. 

But finally I got over my skepticism and tried La Buca on Melrose.  This sweet neighborhood spot has plenty of mentions, so I'm not pretending it's a find or some super obscure hole-in-the-wall.  Literally speaking though, it is really damn tiny.  I think I counted 20 seats max last night.  I also like Aroma in Silver Lake well enough; still, it's all stuff I'd just as soon cook myself and we haven't been back since one good if not outstanding dinner. 

After several recent visits to La Buca I can best vouch for a few dishes.  Starting with the Insalata Riccardo, which includes chopped raddichio, walnuts, Grana Padano, and green apple.  It's a huge platter and perfect for sharing.  In Italian restaurants I oddly adopt American habits and eat salad before the meal, which I don't do at home.  (I guess I don't want to come off as That Person who asks for salad later.  What a nonsense neurosis, since there are plenty of other things I will request.) 

Basics like the pedestrian pounded chicken breast special with rosemary and lemon is a good slab of well-prepared protein.  Burro salvia is richly sage-y.   Large gnocchi are soft and luxurious, like the edible equivalent of a lovely goose down pillow.  With burro salvia, the starchy elements contrast with herbal intensity for an incredible sensory experience.  I haven't tried the pizza.

Sadly, my praise stops when we get to tomato-based sauces.  Pomodoro e basilico with no basil to be found paired with gnocchi (pictured above) and Amatriciana sauces come from the school of Italo-Americano "gravy."  Rather than chopped and reduced, tomatoes are pureed � a method that results in a wet, goopy sauce that just slips off rather than coats La Buca's fine handmade pasta and gnocchi.  And the sauce doesn't swing 'cause it ain't got that tomato tang.  I don't doubt they use pancetta (maybe guanciale is hard to find here), yet the Amatriciana is still too smoky and bacony in the American bacon sense.  Sorry to pat myself on the back, but when we cook Amatriciana at home there's a pool of oil commingling with melted pork fat and tiny San Marzano bits at the bottom of the bowl to wipe up when the bucatini is all gone.  Marcella's recipe is closer to versions I've loved at modest eateries in Rome (though nowhere near as good, obviously), even if I make it without guanciale.   

With friendly guys who indulge my wanting to speak rusty Italian, proximity to our nabe, and the always welcome BYOB policy, weeknight dinners at La Buca never fail to be fun and satisfying.  Especially if you can get out of that sweltering room before closing time at Pazzo Gelato.   

Osteria La Buca
5210 1/2 Melrose Ave. (at Wilton)
Los Angeles 90038
323.462.1900